With a ½" seam allowance, a 1" square will create a 1" gusset, a 2" square yields a 3" gusset.

You can clip into the seam allowance of the straight (gusset) panel to lengthen the raw edge, if you’d like. I don’t do that. Here are two different ways to make a gusset. The size of the square will determine the depth of the gusset.

At each of the bottom corners, mark out a square. Method One: Cut First. (Photo 4) 5) Now wrap the back of the bag around the last side of the gussets and sew one gusset, then the other, repeating steps 2-4. Remember, this is a three-dimensional thing you are making. So, tuck the Main Panel inside the Gusset, matching the raw edges and pinning as you go. The Gusset looks short at this point, it’s not. Layer your rectangles right sides together.

This time, you can sew all the way to the top (hemmed) seam of the gusset.


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